We have made it to Edinburgh (yesterday)! And the funny thing is that of all places we have been to, this is the one place where finding free WiFi is very difficult! I don’t understand why this place doesn’t have WiFi. But, such is life. We ended our “pilgrimage” in a dramatic (but not a 2 day journey dramatic) fashion. Because of the hurricane force winds the day before it was questionable on if we would get off the island in the morning as planned. We got to the ferry from Iona to Mull with rumors that the next ferry we would take may not be running. Plus, since nobody could get off the island the day before, the bus may have been full going from one end of Mull to the next. Luckily, all went well. We made it safely to Edinburgh (only to find out there was a volcano that was causing the airport to shut down so we may not be able to leave on Friday). We are right on the Royal Mile, just blocks from the castle. It is fantastic.
Today we were tourists and went to the castle and then Liz and I walked all over looking at places Ilani (my friend that used to live in the city) recommended. We found two cemeteries (one planned, the other unplanned but had the grave of David Hume—a philosopher—so that was neat). I couldn’t help but think of the differences of the grave stones in all the cities we had visited on this trip. In Paris, they were very elaborate and ornate. There were varying degrees of religiousness between the graves. In Lourdes, they were all Christian and all had either a cross or a crucifix along with the grave. In Iona, many were very old (while there were some recent ones), that were very plain and not very decorated. In Edinburgh, there are fewer crosses, but far more images of death (skull, skeleton, cross bones). The Paris cemeteries were definitely the coolest ones, but the Edinburgh ones were definitely the creepiest ones. If I knew more about burial practices and ritual practices around death these cities would definitely be great to study further and compare/contrast.
Liz and I also went to the Elephant Bar, where J.K. Rowling wrote the first Harry Potter book(s). It was neat to go to a place that had recent history (since everywhere we have been going had very much old history). A “Harry Potter Pilgrimage” would be an awesome experience, since I have heard that London has embraced the stories and has put up signs such as “Platform 9 ¾” and “Diagon Alley” in certain places. As well, the “pilgrimage” could include the Elephant Bar, the castle that inspired Hogwarts (which is apparently in Edinburgh but I have not yet seen—Christina has), and Harry Potter World in Orlando. However, we have learned with Victor Turner that pilgrimages may include danger and suffering. I’m not sure how much suffering would be included in going to major cities other than long plane rides.
Dr. Bell is taking us to a church tomorrow that apparently is a pilgrimage spot for Presbyterians that is relevant to John Knox (the Martin Luther of Presbyterians). I am not very interested, which I think is partially because interests lie in early Christian history (i.e. right up to the Reformation) and I am not Presbyterian. If we were in Germany and we were going to significant spots in Martin Luther’s life, I would be far more interested. I am not familiar with much of Reformation history outside of Luther, Calvin, and Henry VIII, so I should take this opportunity to learn more and broaden my horizons. At least, that is what I’m thinking tonight.
Tonight, Christina, Jennifer, and I went on a ghost tour. It started with some history of Edinburgh around the city but then for the last half it went into one of the underground vaults. I have seen several paranormal/ghost adventure shows on the Edinburgh vaults and so knew a little about the vaults before the tour. We go in and enter the first room and I ask the tour guide if she will be talking about Mr. Boots (one of the supposed menacing ghosts in the vaults). She said yes but very briefly in the room we were in; he would be discussed further later on. Now, let me preface by saying that I have never seen a ghost, but I don’t know one way or another if they do exist. I lean towards that they do, but I also understand that a lot is made up on tv shows and ghost tours. Anyway…we are near the end of the tour and I’m towards the front right behind the guide. She tries to direct me into a room and I look at it and recognize it right away as Mr. Boots’ room. I tell her I will not go in the room and that I know the room and refuse to go in it. She says that is fine (after a little convincing on my end) and we both stand at the door way. She is telling her stories (now mind you it is very dark under there and she has a candle to her face). I think I see something in the hallway, and say “Oh my God!” As soon as I say it though I realize that it is just her hair looking strange with the candle light. So, needless to say, the group is a little on edge after that. Then she continues on telling her stories about the room when I hear footsteps coming up behind me (Mr. Boots is named such because he wears boots that have been heard in the vaults). I scream and run into the room and jump towards Christina. The rest of the group (about 25 people) is shocked and the guide even comes into the room (and she also says she does not feel comfortable in this room). She says she also heard the footsteps and is trying to calm us all down (especially me). Then she stops to listen some more, and then says “Boys, come in here!” Turns out, two guys (in their late 20s early 30s) were drunk and decided to have some “fun”. But I felt better (after being scared shitless—pardon the language) knowing that there was a logical reason for the footsteps. It was definitely an experience…and by far the best ghost tour I have been on! I think I made the tour great for everyone else too!
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